Hitting the waters and jumping over the waves being the absolute winners in this genre. 

Although, jumping the waves seems easy at sight, achieving it takes a lot of practice and the right technique. 

So, if you are a new Jet Ski owner who wants to defeat waves, here is everything you need to know. Furthermore, even if you are an experienced rider, these pointers will come in handy for you as well. 

What are the steps to remember while jumping a Jet Ski?

Step 1: Preparation

Step 2. Preliminary surveying- Moments before approaching a wave

3. Approaching the wave

What should be the body posture while jumping the Jet Ski?

Well, preferably stand while hitting a wave. Keep your knees bent (in half a squat), arms bent and your feet outwards on the tray. 

If you sit down while jumping, it becomes hard to control your watercraft and place its landing.

Besides this, a little practice will help you with the position that works for you and makes you comfortable at the same time.

What to do if you come off in the water or if the PWC capsizes?

What are the other precautions you can take to avoid accidents?

Don’t get too enthusiastic

Many times in the excitement of jumping your Jet Ski, riders get too over-enthusiastic and end up hurting themselves. 

Just take it a little slow. Don’t barge in the waters. Going fast at the waves can make you land the ski nose first or ‘belly whack’ the ski, which is really bad.  

Start with smaller jumps and examine the water body first. When you are comfortable enough, give you Jet Ski a good jump.

Stay calm

Figuring out how to jump waves can be frustrating. Initially, there will be times when you will fall down your watercraft.  But do not lose hope and especially your patience even if you get bruised. Believe me; it is only a clear and calm mind that will help you avoid major accidents. 

You don’t need to jump every wave

Don’t jump every wave that comes your way. Take it easy until you know how you are landing. Also, notice in what direction you Jet Ski rolls/turns when you hit the wave. Once you know what’s going on, you’ll understand when to hit the wave. 

Look out for the right weather and location

Find the location that creates the maximum of waves and look out for weather that can naturally catapult you. Windy days, for that matter, produce the best waves for jumping. 

However, when the weather is crazy like in the case of an approaching hurricane, it’s better to stay home than to take the risk.

Take it slow while going at waves

One of the most common mistakes that riders do is to gas their PWC too fast towards the waves. Because of which, they blow through the waves instead of jumping over them. This results in smaller jumps and more injuries.

Avoid areas with traffic 

This is no brainer that you absolutely have to avoid areas with a lot of traffic. Be careful of your surroundings and riders.

If you are riding with friends, don’t jump close to one another but be within each other’s sight. This way you can look out for one another without colliding your water scooters. 

When in groups, jump in a clockwise or anti-clockwise manner. Make all your friends move in the same direction in a line to avoid chaos and collision.

If the water is flat and you plan on jumping waves, then, only wakes from boats can help you. However, it’s better to take the permission of the boat rider before jumping on any boat’s wake.

Safety is the key

As I have stated above, don’t be too enthusiastic and manage your speed well. Take time to judge waves and always carry a personal floatation device for emergency situations. 

Never jump with a passenger 

Go solo on jumping waves. This makes maneuvering easier and will make your jet ski lighter. And a lighter vehicle is better for jumping than the heavier ones. 

Don’t push yourself

After hours of riding and jumping, there will come a time when you’ll be exhausted. At that moment I advise you to please rest and do not push yourself otherwise you’ll end up hurting yourself and others around you.

Choose the right jet ski

When it comes to jumping waves, lighter jet skis are always better. That’s because they jump well on waves and are easy to control.

Heavier Jet skis can only be used as long as they have good power and a strong hull.
Many people suggest stand-ups for jumping. Although these jet skis are fun, they come with a tedious learning curve.

If you are stuck between a two-seater and three-seater, a two-seater is always a better option as they are perfect for performing tricks.

What are the most reliable Jet Skis for the Jumping Wave?

Yamaha GP1300r HO

• Yamaha GP1300r HO is a very reliable and controllable sporty PWC. 
• It comes with great acceleration and even greater turning.
• Because of its powerful engine, this PWC can reach a top speed over 70 mph easily.
• It is a fast and aggressive ski jet and helps you to jump the big waves with no problem.
• Its hull enables it to chop through any water via trim.
• The high-performance hull of the Yamaha GP1300RH HO is reinforced at critical load-bearing areas for durability and strength.
• It has a high-performance, fuel-injected 170 hp, three-cylinder, two-stroke, 1296 cc Yamaha engine

PROS: fast, reliable with rear hull design.

Sea-Doo RXP-X 260

• This WaveRunner is perfect for any beginner trying to accomplish tricks on the wave. Why? Well that’s because of its “inexperienced rider and low RPM mode” that gives a lot of control on the power output 
• It has folding re-board steps let you on and off seamlessly.
• This Jet Ski’s on-board security system keeps your Jet Ski safe.
• It is very lightweight and its 812lbs of weight helps it to fly swiftly in water.
• Comes with a 4-stroke engine that produces 260 horsepower, Making it easy to get to the blazing 60-70+ mph speed.

PROS: Comes in a small frame and nimble body. 

Kawasaki Ultra 310X

• Kawasaki Ultra 310X is a powerhouse. It is the fastest and the most powerful Jet Ski in the market today. It uses the same basic engine as the ZX-14 Sportbike from Kawasaki. Just imagine the power that it holds.
• This power is perfect for revving through choppy waters and giving your Jet Ski a nice jump on a wave or wake. But that’s only when you are a skilled driver.

• It cranks out 300 hp.
• It has a liquid-cooled inline 4-cylinder with nearly 1,500 ccs of displacement.
• With modification, it can reach about 100mph speed.
• Tons of storage and many other features to ponder on.

Pro: Low RPM and ecological power options
Con: Easy to overcorrect direction and a little heavy. 

Kawasaki STX 15-F

• STX-15F has 160 horsepower and delivers speeds up to 62 mph, assuming good conditions. 
• This Jet Ski is reliable and is impossible to break or hurt no matter how inexperienced the driver is. This makes it perfect for beginners trying to perform tricks. 

Pro:  It has a Four-stroke, four-cylinder engine
Con: Its body and deck is outdated.

Yamaha Wave runner SuperJet

Standups may not be the stars of the Jet Ski market but they still hold a special place in our hearts for being the best models for tricks and jumping.

Although they are hard to ride and very difficult to control, anyone looking for some air will find riding this PWC very amusing. 

• 74 HP is crammed into a body. 
• It barely weighs 300 lbs. 
• It has a small speed to weight ratio, which becomes great for racing your PWC.
• It comes with a 2-stroke, dual cylinder engine with 701cc worth of displacement.
• Yamaha SJ also comes with 38mm Mikuni carburettors that give it a screaming throttle. 

Pro: Comfortable, ergonomic handlebars and nimble.
Con: Stand-up model with an annoying learning curve.

Final thoughts: Jumping a Jet Ski is very exciting and very dangerous at the same time. Just make sure you master the technique before hitting a strong wave. Do follow all the safety rules, wear a helmet and a life jacket while performing a jump. Just be safe you all!

If you are a potential Jet Ski buyer, then chances are that you’ve already been fed with tonnes of information on which PWC is better. And, I am sure the debacle on the cooling system might have been the highlight of any Sea-Doo owner’s argument. As you are here on my blog, I am sure you need a rational point of view on the whole “Cooling system” debate.

Good for you! You’ve landed in the right place. But before jumping on this discussion, let’s brush up on things that you may or may not already know.

A cooling system in a watercraft is a troubleshooting mechanism that helps in cooling your engines. In the Open loop cooling system, this process is quite simple.  The machine draws “raw water” (water that the craft is floating on) into the engine, pumps it through the engine’s water jacket and then ejects it out.

On the other hand in a closed Loop cooling mechanism the machine uses coolant or antifreeze to keep the engine running at ideal temperatures. Although this system also uses the surrounding water to cool the watercraft, the water never enters the system. Actually, the coolant circulates in the machine with the help of a ride plate. It is the ride plate that cools the heated coolant by bringing it in indirect contact with the water surface where it can dissipate heat.

Now that we are on the same page, let’s get back to this big debate.

What’s the disagreement about?

Since time immemorial, watercrafts have been using an open loop cooling system for cooling down the engines…until Sea-Doo launched its first-ever closed loop system in 2002.  Since then, Jet Ski owners have been picking sides whenever the heated discussion on which watercraft is better comes into the picture.

The issue:

When Sea-Doo launched its first 4-Tec engine in 2002 it advertised it to better as it prevented the engine from the corrosive saltwater and damaging debris because of its closed loop cooling technology. It also promised reliability, longevity and peace of mind, which seems fair considering that they were dodging all the shockwaves created by the open loop system (according to the claims). But loyal customers of Kawasaki and Yamaha thought otherwise. ( We will talk about their arguments later in the blog)

Before jumping on to this debate let’s understand whether the claims made by Sea Doo are true or not. We have to dig right into the meat of the matter and firstly look into the widely believed pros and cons of these systems.

Open loop cooling systems

Pros:

• Open loop cooling systems are simple and very efficient.
• Easier on the pocket as it requires less maintenance than a closed loop system and cut downs the inconvenient trips to the dealership.

Cons:

• Saltwater: Saltwater is known to build up a corrosive state when the engine operates above 140 degrees. This scale builds up in the engine water jacket and ports. When the corrosion builds to a point where the flow is restricted, the engine starts to overheat, causing it great damage. To prevent this, riders have to run fresh water through the watercraft which contributes to the extra post-ride time.
• During winters one may have to put some extra efforts to winterize the Jet Ski to avoid the potential freezing and expansion hazard that can break the metal.
• Due to the intake of raw water for cooling the engine, there is also a decent chance for debris to enter the system.

Closed Loop Cooling System:

Pros:

• In a closed loop cooling system, as the engine never gets in direct contact with water, the life of the machine increases exponentially.
• A closed loop cooling system maintains a controlled temperature in the Jet Ski. So, regardless of the temperature of the water beneath it, your engine system will always be at an optimum temperature. That means even if you are driving on hot summer days, you will not have to worry about overheating your engine.

Cons:

• Maintenance cost is higher than an open loop cooling system. The coolant needs to be replaced every year if driven in salty waters.
• Needs a separate water pump and heat exchanger.
• Ride plates can get easily damaged if you beach your PWC frequently.

Now that you know about both the systems, let’s bring in the arguments from loyal Kawasaki and Yamaha customers  that are making this debate so alive and kicking.

Addressing the arguments one by one

Number 1: If the Open Loop Cooling system is so troublesome why is it still the widely used cooling system for marine vehicles? 

Over 99 per cent of marine vehicles use open loop cooling systems. Why would companies use this system so frequently if there is a threat of corrosion? That’s because open loop cooling systems have existed in the business for decades and have proven to be very efficient. This system is simple and poses less threat to the marine ecosystem.

Moreover, corrosion is a long process and even with an open loop cooling system, it can be avoided if you religiously flush your ski after every ride with fresh water. Doing this cuts down the possibility of the potential hazard caused by debris, salt water and even water retention during winters.

Number 2: Flushing is required in a closed loop cooling system as well

You may have heard rider’s say that investing in a closed loop cooling system is a must if you want to avoid the efforts to flush your watercrafts post ride.

However, even in Sea Doo’ the exhaust system is open looped. So, whether you like it or not, flushing will be a part of your aftercare procedure regardless of what cooling system you’ve opted for.

Now that you know everything about cooling systems, I am sure choosing what side you are on has become a lot easier.

However, if you are considering the cooling system to be the sole factor for choosing a PWC, I would recommend you to weigh in other features as well. You’ll have to consider all the other aspects that comprises a good PWC, a cooling system alone won’t tick off every requirement on your list.

In situations like these, it’s imperative to know exactly what you are doing. That’s because a wrong technique can do serious damage to your PWC. So, here is everything you need to know about putting your Jet Ski on the beach and taking it back on the water.

Side note: When there is soft sand all around and all you want to do is enjoy on the shore and stay close to the water, make sure that you are careful before beaching your jet ski. Because beaching your jet skis isn’t recommended for multiple reasons. (read more)

How to Beaching your Jet Ski

When to beach your PWC

When you need to get off your water scooters for a few minutes and there is a constant change in the tide or when you have to move around every hour, anchoring your boat seems too much work.  It is then you can adopt the method of beaching.

However, make sure you have great visibility of the beach where you are parking. Also, take special care of whether or not the sand contains rocks.

Best Technique for Beaching Your PWC

How to Un-beach your Jet Ski

FAQ About Beaching a Jet Ski

NOTE: Generally, parking your water scooter directly on the beach is famous as beaching. But many times people also use the term “offshore beaching” which refers to anchoring. Don’t get confused if you see this term. Moreover, we have talked about anchors in detail in Everything about Jet Ski Anchor blog.

Frequently changing the oils not only bid adieus to these breakdowns but also, extends the life of your engine by thousands of hours. Furthermore, changing the oil in jet skis and boats is not as easy as it is in cars where all you have to do is unscrew the drain plug. It is a little trickier.

High revving engines of PWC require quiet (after every 50 hours). Also, asking your jet skis or boats (oil change required after every 100 hours) to the workshop for an oil change this frequently will definitely cost you a fortune. Want to save yourself from all that hassle? Are you ready to spend your time getting your elbows dirty instead of spending $200 just to change the oils? So, all you need is a good oil-changing pump/ extractor.

Oil changing pumps are used to remove fluids from different parts of the vehicle. And, whether it is the transmission fluid, gear oil, engine oil or any other oil present in the machinery, oil changing pumps help you get rid of them with minimum fuss. But let’s learn how to change oils in a Jet-Ski first, shall we?

How to Change Oil in a Jet Ski

Extract & Change Engine Oil in a 4 Stroke Jet Ski

• Warm-up your jet ski. A 20-30 minute ride will be enough for that.
• Completely remove the dipstick without letting any oil drip. 

• Put the oil pump tube where your dipstick was and siphon out the oil.
• Replace the oil filter (similar to the previous one).
• If you are using an oil pump that can refill the reservoir well and good. Otherwise, use a funnel to refill oil.

NOTE:  For a 2 stroke Jet Ski, an oil-changing pump is not used.

How to Change your Boat Engine Oil [Video]

For many boats, the process of oil changing is the same as the process for 4-stroke engines. Furthermore, the oil reservoir is separately placed and an oil changing pump is used to siphon out the oil. The drain plug under the tank can also be opened to collect oil in a drip pan under the boat. But this is only possible when the boat is on land otherwise it will be quite messy.

Top Oil Changing Pump for Jet Ski and Boats ???? { Sorted on their Working Style}

MANUAL

Pneumatic Oil Extractor for Jet Ski & Boats o liO

This kind of oil extractor comes with a hand pump with which you can manually pump the oil out of the tank into the storage container. The whole process of pumping out takes around 10-20 minutes. Furthermore, this pump can be used to extract small quantities of oil with a few pumps when the tank is overfilled.

Working:

• Hand pump creates suction that draws the fluid out into the storage tank.
• With each manual pump, the oil is extracted at a steady rate. That means if the pumping stops, the oil will stop moving. 

PNEUMATIC MARINE PUMP: Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus

Air and Vacuum Oil Extractor Pump for Jet Ski

This oil extractor uses the principle of vacuum suction to remove oil.  Like the pneumatic pump, this too requires a manual hand pump to create a strong vacuum but is fitted with storage containers to collect the oil coming out and takes lesser time.

Working:

• The main hose connects to the extractor and also connects to a smaller (in diameter) secondary hose through a valve. 
• Insert the secondary hose into the dipstick hole all the way to the end.
• Create a vacuum by pumping it 10-30 times in a row for the vacuum to be powerful.
• Open the valve between both the hoses. As the valve opens, the oil will suck out of the oil reservoir and into the container. The oil flows constantly and there is no more need for any kind of pumping.

AirPower America 5060TS Topsider Multi-Purpose Fluid Removing System

Auto (Electric) Oil Changing Pump for Jet Ski

Rather than using your hand and your energy to pump out the oil, an electric oil extractor can help you remove the oil without spilling. This oil changing pump can also be connected to the battery of the vehicles. Also, it works wonders with a separate battery too. They are simple and compact and are easy to store. The most common pump in this category is the 12V oil extractor.

Pros:

• These are more efficient than the manual extractors as they remove every ounce of oil from the tank.
•  They work fast.
• Do not need constant supervision while they are running.

Cons:

• Pricier than the manual extractors.

*Compared to the money you spend on changing the oils at service stations and dealerships, this amount is relatively less

Examples of electric pumps are:-

XtremepowerUS 12v Fluid Oil Diesel Extractor + Tubes Truck RV Boat ATV

 Jabsco 17850-1012 DIY Engine Oil Changer

Mountable Oil Pump for Jet Ski

The working of mountable pumps is like that of auto electric pumps. The only difference is that these pumps can be permanently mounted on your vehicle. Furthermore, they can be used to empty or fill the oil tanks of engines, transmissions, and generators, and can work on single-engine or multiple-engine machines.

Different types of Mountable Pumps on the Basis of Flow Rate:

Light duty: Used for small boats and machines.

• Max hose length from engine to system: 8 ft / 2.4m
• Max hose length from system to the container: 5 ft / 1.5m
• Flow rate: 2.5 Gallon / min (9.46 litre / min)

Medium duty: Used for larger Oil sumps.

• Max hose length from engine to system: 12 ft / 3.6m
• Max hose length from system to the container: 5 ft / 1.5m
• Flow rate: 3 Gallon / min (11.35 litre / min)

• Max hose length from the engine to the system: 15 ft / 4.5m
• Max hose length from system to container: 40 ft / 12m
• Flow rate: 3 Gallon / min (11.35 litre / min)

The Common features of all these types are:

• Reversible flow (drains and fills engine)
• Self-priming
• Simplifies oil changes
• Reduces chances of oil spills
• Central service point for multiple types of equipment
• Availability: 12 and 24 volts

Different types of mountable pumps on the basis of valves:

2- valve

It is a Light-duty Pump used mainly to remove and refill the oil in the engine and the generator.

Working:

• The valves on the pump are connected to the engine and generator only.
• Drain hose is placed in a bucket or container to collect the oil removed.
• The same hose is placed into the container containing the new oil that needs to be pumped in.
• The pump is turned on in order to fill the tank.
• This process is done separately for each system.
• The valve of the generator system should be close when the oil change process is going on in the engine oil tank.

3-valves:

Available as a light-duty, medium-duty, and heavy-duty pump, this pump can be used to change the oil in the engine, transmission, and generator. Furthermore, when one valve is under working, the other 2 valves are closed. The pump is not designed to remove oil from more than one valve at a time.  Working is the same as the 2-valve pump.

4-valves:

These have 4 valves that can be used to change the oil in the engine, transmission, generator, and other systems. Furthermore, these are available as light-duty, medium-duty, and heavy-duty pumps. Working is the same as the 2-valve pump.

5-valves:

When there is more than one engine in a boat, i.e. in the case of a twin-engine boat, a 5-valve pump is used. Furthermore, this pump is useful in big boats for an easy oil change and is available as a light-duty, medium-duty, and heavy-duty pump.

Working:

The two engines are connected to two valves.

Two more valves are used to connect the two transmissions to the pump, and the last valve is connected to the generator.

???? Guidelines to Follow Before Buying a Oil Changing Pump for Marine/ Jet Ski

Priming: A suction pressure is needed for a standard pump to work. A self-priming pump can easily draw liquid into the hose while removing oil from the tank.

Probe or hose: As we drain the oil through the dipstick tube, choose a pump that has a hose with a large diameter, but still can fit in the hole of the dipstick.

Capacity: Many pumps are fitted with a container for collecting waste oil. So select a pump that has enough capacity to hold the engine oil.

2-way: Buy a pump that can drain and as well as pump-in oil.

Portability: Unmounted pumps should be portable so that they can be moved easily and are not difficult to deal with.

Permanent: For big boats or PWC make sure you opt for a permanent/mountable pump.

Safety: Check whether the pump you want to take is safe and does not have any leakage. In the case of electric pumps, take care if they are not damaged so that the system does not cause any harm to you